Storytelling is part of our South African ethos – and KwaZulu-Natal is no different. If you listen carefully you will hear the echoes of the past whisper on the warm sub-tropical breeze … stories of pioneers and adventurers, pirates, shipwrecks and lost treasures. Tales of overcoming hardships and the forging of friendships; themes of love and betrayal, set against a backdrop of verdant green landscapes teeming with wildlife for the hunting, and the devastating brutality of war.

You could of course forgo relaxing on sun-drenched beaches and set off on adventures of your own, exploring the wealth of activities available in the Zulu Kingdom – from scaling the peaks of the legendary Drakensberg mountains to setting off on a safari in search of the Big Seven (the normal five, plus dolphins and whales) or swimming with ragged-tooth sharks – and return with a story of your own to tell.

Simply put: KwaZulu-Natal is a multifaceted tourist jewel. Its residents boast of glorious beaches, untamed bush, historical battlefields and the majesty of the Drakensberg mountains. They also tell of biltong, braaivleis (barbecue), and a unique cultural heritage that gives the Kingdom of the Zulu a very special buzz – an unusual and enticing blend of spices and incense, putu (porridge) and home-brewed beer combined with the beat of the drum becoming the veritable heartbeat of a province full of promise. 

BROACHING THE BARRIER OF SPEARS

The 3 000 metre high jagged peaks and spires of the forbidding Drakensberg dominate the western edge of the Zulu Kingdom. Known as uKhahlamba, the barrier of spears, the impressive mountain range and its dramatic drop from escarpment to rolling hills below has been declared a World Heritage Site for both unspoilt natural environment and its wealth of ancient San rock paintings depicting hunting scenes, trances and rituals.

Home to the rare bearded vulture, the Drakensberg is the ideal place to explore. Adrenalin junkies set on scaling peaks can seek out high mountain thrills while families can take more gentle strolls among the wild flowers and grasses, and stop to enjoy a sunbird, a baboon or a sighting of the gentle Eland. And there is nothing better than relaxing and enjoying the majestic views and fresh mountain air after a day's adventure.

There are numerous camping sites, resorts, mountain lodges and B&Bs offering accommodation throughout the region. Popular Drakensberg holiday activities include golf, hiking on well-marked trails, walks to San rock art, climbing, horse riding, trout fishing (dams and rivers), bass fishing (dams), birding, paragliding, tennis and bowls, as well as swimming and tubing in the crystal clear mountain rivers. The Amphitheatre, Cathedral Peak and Giants Castle are the most popular areas to visit and a 4x4 trip up Sani Pass into Lesotho (and the highest pub in Africa) showcases the beauty of the area.

BRAVING THE BATTLEFIELDS

Should one travel east from the Drakensberg, the vegetation turns into real African bushveld –sparse and thorny with an ethereal beauty. The scars of the Battlefields of KwaZulu-Natal stretch towards Zululand, where visitors from around the world come to wander around battle sites, graveyards, memorials and museums and conjure up images of steel-tipped assegais, cow-hide shields, the resonating crack of gunfire and the deep red of spilled blood.

The Talana museum, on the Talana battlefield outside Dundee is one of the most impressive, housing relics from the Voortrekkers and the Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer wars. Other sites close to Dundee worth visiting are the famous battlefields of Blood River, Isandlwana, Elandslaagte and Rorke's Drift. You can drive all or part of the extensive battlefields yourself, following excellent maps, or join an organised tour.

There is more to the Battlefields than the heroism and betrayals of the past. Visit the craft markets where cloths are dyed, pots thrown and glazed and carpets woven.  Experience the wilderness with game drives, adventure and outdoor sports, good fishing, white water rafting – and follow the fugitives' trail used by soldiers fleeing Isandlwana.

A visit to the scenic Valley of the Cannibals – including Cannibal Caves, Rock and Pantry, captures one's imagination, and a tour would not be complete without visiting the Cottage Hospital (actually used as a military hospital during the battle of Talana), the iron age smelting site, San paintings and the Miner's Rest, a typical coalminer's home in the 1920s.

MEANDERING IN THE MIDLANDS

Instead of heading east from the awesome might of jagged peaks called the Drakensberg, follow the waterways as they drop and cascade down mountain clefts and through hidden valleys and the tumbling luscious hills that extend to the Midlands, before flowing gently to the coast. Often compared to the midlands of England the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands comprises a prosperous agricultural industry based mainly on thoroughbred horses, dairy and forestry, interspersed with small picturesque villages. 

There are a number of well-marked craft routes throughout the area, the most popular being the Midlands Meander. Visitors can enjoy a scenic drive and stop off to visit the studios of talented potters and artists, weavers and leather workers. Browse for gifts and organic farm produce or stop for tea or lunch at any one of a number of cottage outlets throughout the region. The Midlands is also renowned for fly-fishing and for the Splashy Fen folk music festival.

Pietermaritzburg, the capital of the Zulu Kingdom, is an enthralling mix of Edwardian and Victorian era architecture spiced with Indian heritage, African culture and clashes between Boer and Brit. It has a number of historical and natural attractions and hosts three major annual sporting events: the Midmar Mile, the Comrades Marathon and the Dusi Canoe Marathon. A few kilometres inland takes you to Midmar Dam for water sports and trip into nature, to swings through the forest canopy at Karkloof or to the dramatic 100 m waterfall tumbling into Howick.

DIVERSITY IN DURBAN

South Africa's third largest city, Durban is a busy port town based on the edge of the warm Indian Ocean. It offers the buzz of a large metropolitan city with a vibrant mix of cultures, miles of sun-drenched beaches and a moderate climate that makes water sports a pleasure in all four seasons.

For 'shop till you drop' retail therapy a visit to The Pavilion or Gateway, and a visit to the bustling Victoria Street Market and nearby aromatic Spice Emporium are musts to get the real vibe and eclectic cultural feel of Durban. Here sangomas rub shoulders with traders selling everything from mutu to exotic hot spices.

The BAT Centre and Wilson's Wharf are funky places to relax to the sounds of good music and enjoy a fine meal, as are a number of alfresco style cafés in Florida Road. Township tours give a feel for traditional and modern African life, and a visit to the Sharks Board brings one nose to jowl with these fearsome predators of the deep.

uShaka Marine World, Durban's newest attraction, is home to the world's fifth largest aquarium, a dolphinarium, penguin rookery and fun water slides and rides, and makes a great day's outing. In addition, Durban has a variety of shows for theatre buffs, galleries for art fanatics and a number of museums for the history and natural science enthusiasts.

SIZZLING SOUTH COAST

From Durban head south along the N2 into a subtropical coastal paradise of cool green forests, tranquil nature reserves, sparkling waves and golden beaches under sunny skies. Swimming, surfing, scuba diving, deep sea fishing, dolphin and whale watching and soaking up the sun are the prime attractions of KwaZulu-Natal's Hibiscus Coast – a stretch that boasts five blue-star beaches and numerous golf courses.

The hot summers and mild winters along this stretch, extending from Hibberdene to Port Edward, make it the perfect beach holiday destination. In June there is an annual sardine run, when the seas come alive as large shoals of sardines migrate north along the coast, occasionally beaching in their thousands to be collected by delighted locals. These shoals are followed by thousands of dolphins, whales, seals, shark, gamefish and sea birds which swoop in to feast on nature's bounty, making it an unforgettable spectacle.

Accommodation ranges from seafront campsites to luxury golf lodges renowned for their laid back charm. Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks are two world-class scuba diving sites, providing diving with a variety of sea creatures, shipwrecks and underwater rock and reef formations.
The picturesque Oribi Gorge nature reserve is an adventure hotspot with abseiling, white water rafting and the world's highest gorge swing.

NORTH COAST

The rolling sugar cane-covered hills of the north coast extend from Port Zimbali northwards to the mighty Thukela River, with luxury seaside resorts studded along the shores and schools of dolphin swimming off the coast. Ballito is the main hub, with kilometres of beachfront accommodation and protected swimming beaches. Further north Shaka's Rock, Salt Rock, Tinley Manor and Zinkwazi offer an array of tidal pools, impressive rock formations as well as good surf fishing.

Tourist activities include dolphin viewing, microlighting, visits to game reserves, golf tours and visits to crocodile and animal farms.

NATURE IN ABUNDANCE IN ZULULAND

Moving north beyond the Thukela River to the marine World Heritage Site of St. Lucia and inland beyond Ulundi – with impressive coastline, sweeping valleys and indigenous forests – one can discover the rich history, social customs and craftsmanship of the Zulu in several cultural villages in the very heart of this kingdom, Zululand.

Roadside stalls and shops are crammed with homemade clay pots, beadwork, woodcarvings, reed and grass baskets and mats. Mtunzini has a number of natural attractions including a winter butterfly migration, the rare raffia palm and equally rare palm-nut vulture.

The birthplace of King Shaka and burial site of seven Zulu kings – eMakhosini (Valley of the Kings) adds a touch of history and bird lovers can follow the Zululand Birding Route which offers a rich birding potential of 605 species over 14 self-drive routes. Explore the Ngome Mist Forest, numerous game reserves, or enjoy an easy stroll through the forest canopies on the Dlinza Forest aerial boardwalk.

ECOTOURISTS' MECCA ON THE ELEPHANT COAST

Moving further north along the Elephant Coast from St. Lucia to the border with Mozambique one gets the feeling of being in the untamed Africa of the past. An ecotourist paradise: there are dozens of game reserves, beautiful beaches, deep sea fishing, diving off a number of reefs, mountain trails and numerous historical sites. Swamp forests, river estuaries, large coastal lagoons, and clear coastal lakes are home to hippo and crocodile and more than 2 000 plant species.

Game viewing options are plentiful. Tembe Elephant Park and Ndumo, Mkuze and Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserves as well as Thanda and Phinda Private Game Reserves allow you to spot many of the Big Five from the comfort of your vehicle or on a safari with a knowledgeable guide.

Sodwana Bay, Cape Vidal and Kosi Bay provide excellent underwater experiences – scuba diving or snorkelling – with humpback whale, ragged tooth sharks, whale sharks and tiger sharks and a variety of rays to mention just a few of the 1 200 species of fish in the coastal waters.

The Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park is the largest estuary in southern Africa with a 38 000 hectare expanse of tidal and semi-tidal water. It is home to the rare coelacanth, a fish once thought to be extinct. Horse safaris, sea kayaking and off-road trails for quad bikes add to the adventure experience and the wilderness trails offered by KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife provide an unforgettable encounter with nature. Turtle and Whale Watching tours are popular between June and November.

This article appeared in Explore SA.